Travels with Penelope

Travel, Food, Wine, Spirituality and Everything Else

Page 12 of 14

March 19, 2014 Clot to Mole

About to make another trip through the world of modern medicine I left home at 6:00 AM and wove my way through a maze of OC freeways. The ride on the toll road through low-lying rolling green hills soothed my anxieties over the oncoming procedure to which I was headed.

I rarely see an ordinary doctor, you know, one of those family practitioners. I am more likely to be found in office of an acupuncturist, herbalist or traditional healer. But I must admit otolaryngologists and their audiologists, dermatologists and dentists are among some of my best friends. They’re the parts that have to be attended to.

Dr. Huang, a dermatologist determined that my mole was a five on a scale of one – ten with ten being bad, should be removed. When I agreed to submit, she promptly packed me off to Dr. Hung, a plastic surgeon, to make sure that scarring would be minimalized.

A similar look and feel to Urgent Care, I felt right at home as I drove up to the medical center that housed the surgeon’s office. Scruffy around the edges, bland, sterile colors in the lobby I made my way up to the second floor on an elevator that had seen better days. With the waiting room full of retirees and one zippy young woman in a navy blue business suit and tan pumps I knew I was in for the long haul, but hey, I had a good book: Unbounded Wholeness: Authenticity, the same I had taken to Viet Nam.

Surprisingly, shortly, a technician called me to the inner sanctum. She led me to a room continuous in the same bland colors as the outer waiting area. A gray chair like that of a dentist rested in the middle of the room. With due diligence she prepared me for the task at hand.  Questions about allergies, blood pressure, she assured me that mine was good, followed a request that I partially disrobe. The issue was a large, brown blot on my left thigh.

Next she prepared the chair-table. A metal grounding device to rest under my leg was hooked up, a sheet spread on which to sit and one to cover my bare legs. I wore my black socks with gold threads to take off the chill. After making sure that I was comfortable she left me to my own devices. I was grateful that the routine did not include getting on the scale.

A flotilla of palms representative of all SoCal varieties flooded the view from the windows, beautifully silhouetted against the early rosy sky. No telling how long I would be waiting considering the number of patients in the outer office. I decided to read.  I reached from my perch to the chair where I had left my book. Too wide I slipped off, forgetting that in preparation for the surgery, the aide had raised the chair to the doctor’s work level. Down we went, sheets, grounding device, purse, cell phone, and book. To my chagrin, the grounding device began to beep. Fortunately, I managed to get back up on the chair smooth things out a bit before anyone noticed.

Dr Hung someone of a rare bird in my experience, totally engaged me in chitchat. He seemed genuinely interested in who I was as he plied me with questions.  Turned out both of us had grown up in SoCal. Then he went on to Stanford and UC San Francisco. As for my story, well, his only response: “conventional.”

Curiously, he even asked me where I went to high school. We were really getting down to the nitty-gritty.

“Mater Dei.”

“Why, that’s so conventional. I would never put you there. That must have been several lifetimes, ago.”

I swear this is exactly what he said to me. He was so struck that I had gone to what he considered “such a conventional high school.”  I’ve always been proud of my status as an alumna of MD. The school has had athletic and scholastic fame since its founding back in the sixties, but the plastic surgeon took a little air out of my fame balloon.

Two hours later the removal itself took only three minutes, having completed his work Dr. Hung turned to my records on the desk.

“Penelope Shackelford, that’s a very conventional name, but you are not conventional. You live in Davis. Hm. That’s a very conventional place. But you are not conventional.”

Was there no end to his analysis?  During the procedure we had had a lovely conversation about music, travel and health, but what was it that gave him such insight? I mind tripped back through our talk.

I had offered a critique of the office music. The Beethoven recordings playing on the sound system were not helpful. He accused me of not liking Beethoven, but I assured him not so. Too complex and too conceptual I explained. They made me feel I like I was at a parade.  Choppy, staccato and big bass drums are not the best sounds for patients undergoing medical procedures. Told him I had long worked with sound healing and offered to find something more appropriate for him, something along Native American flute music or Indian sitar.

We also talked of yoga.  “Do you do yoga?

When I answered affirmatively, he responded, “none this week.”

“None? Hatha, of course not, but surely I can do some, pranayama or raja perhaps?”

“Raja?”

I explained that raja as found in the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali is the practice of cultivation of the mind through meditation and contemplation, hopefully eventually leading to enlightenment.

I had been offered a prescription for an antibiotic to prevent infection, but I turned it down in favor of Chinese herbs. He made a note of this as he scanned the record.

I had said nothing unusual, still, not only did Dr. Hung insist that I was unconventional he did it with all-knowing gravitas.

With the numbers waiting he did not tarry. We shook hands and he departed. I dressed, gathered my belongings and slowly lumbered, careful of the mole wound, down the long hall to the elevator—wondering why Dr. Hung had insisted that I was unconventional.

Maybe the yogis in India were right when they told me that the world is a reflection of ourselves.

March 12, 2014 Mind Clot

Still in the OC

I took my swollen, pained toe to the Laguna Woods Urgent Care Office. With my doctor five hundred miles away UC seemed the best of all alternatives.

image_3

I arrived to an empty waiting room.

image_4

The sweet receptionist handed me a bevy of forms and as soon as I filled them out a tall fortyish man with a boyish face appeared and beckoned me to an examination room. This would be a snap.

When my toe began to swell within hours of a pedicure, I assumed I had a minor infection. Dr. Ribble agreed that likely an infection, but “could  possibly be a blood clot.” This guy not one to take chances, picked up his phone, called a vascular unit in a nearby building and ordered an ultrasound. “Just to make sure!”

Dazed by the thought of a clot, I walked to the center, took an elevator up to the third floor, and walked down a long, sanitized hall to a large office filled with several people waiting for ultrasounds. A receptionist handed me another set of forms to complete, I took a seat and surrendered to a long wait.

image_2

That’s when the struggle began.

I could handle a blood clot. I knew how to reiki myself, visualize healing light, do mantra and appeal to the deities all at the same time. Why by the time I got in to have  the ultrasound the clot if I had one, could be gone. I began with a slow, silent OM and imagined my toe surrounded by clear, white, healthy light.

I should have visualized the Medicine Buddha, Tara or Mother Mary, too, and because I did not my mind that rational scoundrel, jumped in and created other images: mind photos of friends and family members who had lived with blood clot issues.

I had heard their stories. The upshot for some of them is that long flights in airplanes are not recommended. Was I about to meet the same fate? Abruptly, my travel list and all the plans I had been making slid down a narrow tube-like, black-whole drain. Aghast!

“Penelope, get a hold on yourself, you can handle this.” That voice.

I had heard it said that the new drugs do wonders. In six months, blood clot dissolved, I would be back on a plane. Maybe. Or, perhaps this was the beginning of a serious problem. The thought that I could do road trips offered little consolation.

“Stop this nonsense; do your reiki, Om your toe.” The voice again.

What was it Merton said? We struggle with our minds not our bodies? In this case, both seem to be conspiring against me.

The voice warned, I must get a hold on myself. As a last resort, it should have been my first, I pulled a mala out of my purse, visualized the healing Buddha and several goddesses with medicinal powers. I asked Pope Francis for his blessings.

With my call to the poverello, another dimension opened. In the space between my eyes I saw a door to infinity and as quickly as not, I found myself sitting on a mesa overlooking Tsankawi. In spite of the speed of the trip I managed to hold on to my mala and continued to Om.

What is it about some sites that haunt us until we return, if not in the third dimension, at least in the realm of the creative mind or that of virtual reality? Tsankawi is a locus I had visited many times. As with Spider Rock, when I heard the call like a gentle heart murmur, singing come home, come home, I responded by making a trip to Tsankawi.

New Mexico had been my second home for fifteen years before I discovered Tsankawi. One late spring afternoon during a visit to the Southwest I felt called to head north.  As I drove up 285 out of Santa Fe mesmerizing vanilla swirls of cumulus clouds hung over a horizon wider than the eyes could see. Chiseled, red sandstone ridges that divided land and sky were the only thing that kept me grounded. As I passed Nambe Reservation, followed by Camel Rock to the west I felt a pull away from 285. I made a left turn on to Highway 4 heading towards the San Ildefonso Pueblo.  Black Mesa, the flat top mountain sacred to the pueblo flew past. A sign indicated that the road  would lead to Los Alamos, site of the National Government Laboratory.

The drive was magnificent, but I had miles to go before I slept and decided that dilly dallying along less traveled roads was not a luxury I could afford that day. I found a place to do a U and as I turned around I noticed a few cars parked in an obscure area off to the right of the road. A sign posted on a non-descript fence read Tsankawi National Monument. A few days later feeling the call, I would return to explore my discovery in the Bandelier National Forest.

The Anasazi’s, the ancestral pueblo people had established Tsankawi in the Bandelier National Forest on a mesa in the canyon country just north of Santa Fe in the late 1100s. I climbed their carved rocks and and rope stairs until I reached a mesa with a sweeping vista. As I took it all in I wondered how, the natives survived in the parched, sparse, severe, but beautiful land that lay before me?

One answer: surrender. It is believed that the pueblo people depended entirely on their environment for their needs.  They held the native trust that the Earth as our mother has everything we need to sustain us.  They honored and respected her, and used her resources with gratitude.  Native legends tell us that Tsankawi sustained its inhabitants for a while, but then as happens when the earth needs to replenish, resources grew scarce, or rainfall decreased. The inhabitants moved on.

Save for the rubble of ruins, a few faint petroglyphs, and narrow grooved trails – used to this day, physical signs of the Anasazi disappeared long ago. Now, open—unbounded space, Tsankawi is a virtual paradise for sky gazing.

Someone calling from a distance. Three calls before I recognized my name. Tsankawi disappeared as suddenly as it has appeared and I returned to the waiting room. A technician motioned for me to come to a back office for my ultrasound test.

What a trip. Had I a clot, it turned out I did not, I now knew there would be no end to my travels!

March 2, 2014 For Locals Only

In the OC today.

I am sitting in Portola Coffee Lab peering through tall windows at a blue sky intermittent with white streaks and gray cream puffs. The rain gone, every wisp of cloud is clearing. Unbounded space. Tomorrow warmth and sunshine predicted.

IMG_3243

Café Om on Melrose in LA may be a writer’s destination par excellence, but Portola Coffee Lab at The OC Mix in Costa Mesa is the coffee drinkers’ destination sin qua non and a great place for writers as well. If the beverage of choice is not coffee, Seventh Tea Bar next door is an alternative. I tend to go back and forth. A personal port, I would be remiss not to share a bit about Portola.  First and foremost, coffee does not get any better.

I hear a simulated response out there.

“But Penelope, have you been to Blue Bottle in San Francisco? Four Barrel?”

“Yes.”

“Intelligentsia in LA? Stumptown?”

“Yes.”

“Had espresso in Italy?”

“Yes.”

“And?”

“And, Portola is the best coffee in the world, hands down!

Am I biased? Guilty as charged, but I admit, there is one other place where  coffee is almost as good.”

“Where?”

“Japan.”

An aside: at Portola the baristas brew some coffees with Japanese brewing tools.

I discovered the quality of Japanese coffee a year and a half ago while in Japan for our son’s wedding. The coffee houses were wonderful, but on the day Kenjiro my daughter-in-laws father, took us fishing I experienced the extent to which quality brew had moved into Japanese culture. We met at the boat very early long before the coffee houses had opened. Next to the dock was a store, the equivalent of a 7-11. Can you imagine buying your morning cuppa Joe at a 7-11? Well, some may, but not this gourmet. When it comes to food and drink I wouldn’t want to buy anything from a 7-11. My daughter-in-law went over to the store and moments later emerged with pastries and cans, yes cans, of hot coffee. The 7-11’s in Japan have a hot box–looks like a small fridge that keeps cans of coffee, hot. I shuddered as she offered me a can. Not too hot, I could hold it in my hand unprotected. I popped the lid like a can of soda pop and gingerly took my first sip. Morning coffee from a can never tasted so good. Soon I was sailing out to sea, happily sipping a canna Joe.

IMG_1798

IMG_1811

I do not mean to draw comparisons here. It was not a Portola where every cup is perfectly handcrafted according to which of the three brewing methods Trifecta, V-60 or Siphon, the customer chooses. Interesting that V-60 and Siphon are Japanese, Trifecta American made. The Kyoto method of brewing ice coffee is also used.

While pursuing a chemistry degree, Jeff Dugan the friendly outgoing owner of Portola Coffee Lab worked in the coffee business. One thing led to another until he decided to devote himself to the brew. The baristas at PCL reflect the same enthusiasm, friendliness and passion for the work, as does Jeff. His story a great read, can be read at

Portola Coffee Lab

Www.portolacoffeelab.com/‎

Jeff

IMG_3077

By the time the Lab was about a year old, Jeff was considered among some of the best judges as one of the top three roasters in America. I can only imagine what his future holds. The coffees he chooses can be purchased on-line.

OC Mix, the setting for Portola a unique collection of shops, no chains allowed, and foods establishments is a place where creative individuals have opened unique businesses that defy the usual models.

Around the in-door shops airy spaces furnished with tables, chairs and sofas are available for groups or individuals to gather. And gather they do, laughing and chatting with the world of front-page news another world away. Students, great grandparents, artists, tattooed hipsters, businessmen and women in dark suits and designer ties, mamas with babies in papoose, dog walking groups (sitting outside), Bible toting students coming in from classes at a nearby Church, women in traditional Muslim dress, tourists from Asia, the diverse list is endless.

IMG_3266

IMG_3250

IMG_3260

IMG_3272When I decide to leave my cave to join other humans for a bit of social the Mix is one of my destinations. Would that we had more places  like it in our communities. In the advanced enlightened schema of life neither tea nor coffee may be necessary, but human interaction is  and coffee or tea is a drink that brings people together. They also are the way that most of us start the day. For now, I hope to enjoy the best I can find or the best simulation my mind can conjure.

February 24, 2014 Virtual Reality

“What is important is not liberation from the body, but liberation from the mind. We are not entangled in our own body but entangled in our own mind.”  Thomas Merton

By taking a look at the role of context and place in personal history I had grown to understand my feelings of deep connection to Southern California. Initially, I tried to analyze them and got “entangled” in my own mind, but as I let go into the sights, smells and physical experiences a shift occurred. I felt connected and it was ok. On one of my visits to the Yucatan a Mayan elder told me that if we do not know our root we do not know ourselves. With this view in mind I decided to take the process of understanding my connection a bit further by paying a visit to some of the sites where I grew up.

My first stop was the former home of my grandparents in Costa Mesa. Originally, called Goat Hill the town is situated on a mesa overlooking the Pacific mid-way along the OC coastline.  The small home had been built in the mid forties by my uncle after he convinced his parents to abandon their home in Pennsylvania for the more temperate climate of SoCal. I had visited the same site several times through old family photographs, but this time I would revisit it in the real world.

When I arrived to my surprise no changes or renovations had been made to the house. It looked the same as it did the first time I saw it after a three and a half day train ride from Pittsburgh. The trees and bushes had grown, otherwise everything looked as I remembered.  A simple white stucco house, the only thing that gave it any character was the arch over the front porch now hidden by a cypress.

image

Sitting in the car, grateful to be alone I took a silent, mental walk through and around the house. Grandma bathed in flour up to her elbows baking her weekly allotment of bread, Grandpa sitting in his rocker pipe in hand, reciting Irish yarns were first among the long forgotten images that began to emerge. I remembered the taste of All-Bran because Grandma ate it every morning for breakfast as I would when I visited. I saw my mother and her brothers sitting in front of the fireplace on winter evenings holding political arguments about the decisions of the current president.

I wondered around to the backyard where Grandpa built a chicken coop. I saw him catching chickens gory details aside, for Christmas dinners. I saw the lone citrus tree next to the chicken coop that provided us with orange juice all winter. Looking down the road I saw the neighbor who always wore levis and a straw hat. He paid me to gather duck eggs along the small duck pond when he was away. I looked in the other direction and remembered the local ranch market where we bought groceries.

The telescopic, thought-full scenes and images tweaked from ancient memories comforted me. From now to long past, they seemed grounded in the physical locus before me.

As I sat there an interesting thing began to happen. Memories of images sparked by the site of the old homestead, coalesced. I felt a part of a life that at one time had been real no longer existed except as feelings inside me. With that, the simple house seemed to move far away. Not literally, but inside me. The interior of the house as I had been picturing it, including the arrangement of furniture no longer existed. Strangers to whom I had no connection lived there. What I noted when I first approached the house was their large SUV parked in front. Coming full circle, the SUV once again took hold of my attention.

What I had envisioned became  in the course of an instant a simulation. I floundered a bit. Where was I? Here and now, present to the present I told myself, with simulations flipping through my consciousness like a Rolodex. The memories had been comforting, but the telescopic view from now to past while grounded in the physical had turned virtual. Had what I had seen really happened? Of course, but now through the lens of distance, it felt like a simulation.

I became curious, really curious about virtual reality. What is it and does it have any relevance for me? I turned on my Prius motor and drove away from the home that held so many precious memories and headed straight for one of my favorite writing venues. Portola Coffee Lab is also in Costa Mesa. Once there, “entangled in the mind,” I opened my Mac and began to search through web pages for definitions of virtual reality.

February 18, 2014 The Pueblo of the Queen of Angels III

From the window of the apartment in which I am staying I see rose ribbons streaming across the early morning sky portending another sunny day in the city of angels. Yesterday from the same window I watched flocks of wild, lime green parrots hopping from one  tree to another while jet-black crows toned throaty mantras. Forested yards and tall mansions block my view of the San Gabriel’s, but I sense their presence

A friend called and asked if LA was really my favorite city?

photo-12

Reflecting on the same question I realized that it is not La La Land or Tinsel Town that command my attention. It is the nature of the land as in the morning scene outside the window that draws me.

I grew up in Southern California; its geographical forms, flora and fauna created the trail markers of my childhood. Forever etched in my consciousness:  the color of the sun light as it climbs up the gentle slopes of the coastal ranges, the luminescent images created by its descent behind Catalina Island, the crunch of sand massaging my feet when I pad along sea weed littered beaches, trellised bougainvillea and honey suckled fences and one of my favorites, the palm tree. Not  the tall fan from Mexico or Canary Island date, but the indigenous California fan that can be found through out the landscape. Both are such a metaphor not only for me personally, but for so much of the history and ecological development of SoCal.

A Brief History of Palm Trees in Southern California | LA as Subject

photo-13

In 1952 Simon Weil commented that human beings cannot get enough of place. “To be rooted is the most important and least understood need of the human soul.”  Having a sense of the three dimensional world and signposts has even less place in our virtual worlds than in Weil’s time. How I have a sense of rootedness every time I visit Southern California.

A faithful reader requested my favorite sites, specifically tourist sites. That’s a hard one. The city of LA alone is 469 square miles, the Metropolitan area approximately 4,000. Plus, I never think of myself as a tourist so much as a sojourner.  I put on my virtual thinking cap and tried to slide into imagination, instead I went down memory lane.

I haven’t been to Universal Studios a go-to for out-of-towners, in years. The first time in 1965 was as the guest of the Public Relations Director. I was teaching a third grade in a school in Fullerton, a city in Orange County. The same Director’s children attended the school and as a gift to the faculty he invited us for a personal tour and lunch in the actor’s commissary. Our visit antedated the time when sets were specifically set up for tourists.

As we shuttled around Robert Goulet spotted us Although he did not have as much critical acclaim that he would have later especially after Beetlejuice, I recognized him. He walked over to us, we must have looked like a flock of penguins, and introduced himself. He told me he had a relative who was a nun, I believe it was his sister, and had to talk with us. We had a short, but great visit.

Moving to the next set Jerry Lewis approached us. During the course of an extended conversation he told us that he was Jewish, his wife Catholic. As such, he raised the first child, a son in the Judaic tradition; the second child, his wife raised Catholic. Such an amenable solution to mixed marriages as they were called back in the day.

The other famous person we met that day was Mia Farrow. This was prior to her marriage to Woody Allen. She was riding along one of the alleys in a jeep with her director. They stopped to greet us. After all a flock of penguins in the studios was a highly unusual site.

I engineered a second and last trip to Universal for my son in the early eighties. A bus tour took us through sets from famous flicks; hanging out and having lunch in the actor’s commissary a thing of the past.

In the present, downtown is not to be missed. Five years ago it was a repellant trash site. Now, it is one of the hottest renovation projects in California. Old buildings are being restored not torn down. Museums, markets, and quality restaurants have become magnets for Angelino’s, let alone tourists.

I had two visitors, one from New Zealand, one from Japan that I took to the new LA Chapter restaurant in the newly renovated Ace Hotel on Broadway between 8th and 9th for Sunday brunch. The food proved to be a winner!

I recommend the following for a short history, particularly for film buffs:

Los Angeles | Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles | Boutique Hotel

acehotel.com/losangeles

It is mid February, the temperature in LA has been in the high seventies; on the east coast low dips, ice, snow and freezing temps. It’s no wonder that there are nearly 40,000,000 people in the state. In the OC city of Irvine alone 40,000 new living units are under construction to meet the continuing growth.

I thought that the III post on the Pueblo of the Queen would be sufficient. I was wrong. Another will follow.

February 11, 2014 Pueblo of the Queen of Angels II

With Café Om about to close I packed up my computer, whispered Namaste in Buddha’s direction and headed out. An early evening rain dissolved the night scene into blotches of wobbled pastels marked by dancing taillights. We jumped in the car and headed down Melrose now a wet and black oily snake, toward Gracias Madre a restaurant that had been open but a few weeks.

Gracias Madre: such an appropriate name, a thank you to the  Queen of Angels, Mother Earth as well as the mothers and grandmothers.

This was our day to eat vegan: we didn’t plan it, it just happened. Lunchtime and hungry for Japanese food we decided to try Shojin a restaurant that had been recommended by a macrobiotic friend. Even though we had been duly warned that the chef  does not use refined sugar, brown sugar, agave, dairy, chemicals or artificial flavors, we hopped on the Arroyo Seco Parkway in Highland Park where we were staying and headed downtown toward Little Tokyo.

I pray to the Madre when I travel the Arroyo Parkway. Opened in 1940 it is the oldest freeway in LA. With no on or off ramps just stop signs at lines that lead immediately on to the roadway, it’s the antique of the LA  system  with few changes since the day it opened. Each time I get on it I think of the early days when Model T’s, Packard’s, and Nash’s slowly plotted their way toward Pasadena. I remember traveling the Parkway as a child in Dad’s old Nash on New Year’s Day. He piled us in and drove up the Arroyo before dawn in order to get a curbside seat for the Rose Parade.

In the summer of 2011 during a trip to Japan James and I visited Kamakura the home of the famous Daibutsu – the great Buddha. In this small town of great temples we had the pleasure of eating temple food.  Some temples have restaurants. Some have a kitchen and chef well trained in preparing temple food, but no restaurant. In the latter the sacred meal is served in the sacred rooms. Our guide from Back Street Travels had made a reservation at the last.

IMG_2855

On arriving we were seated in one of the meditation rooms at a low table with comfortable cushions for sitting. After a short time for meditation we were served. A panorama of Buddhist deities as well as lingering vibrations from sacred rituals surrounded us as we ate. Each ingredient had been treated with utmost respect.  Even the presentation, texture and flavor of the meat analogues generally something I avoid, truly surprised me. This was a meal that would take residence in my memory and imagination.

IMG_2901

IMG_2891

IMG_2896

I hoped temple food would be the basis of Shojin’s menu. I was not dissappointed. While no temple, Shojin is quiet, the walls dark, the lights low, and the servers gracious as in the Japanese tradition. The stuffed shitakes took me back to Kamakura. My resident vegan could not have been happier. Guaranteed to satisfy foodies of all persuasions I cannot understand why Michelin hasn’t discovered Shojin.

As an aside, LA has become a growing mecca for vegan and vegetarian restaurants. PETA, People for the Ethic Treatment of Animals lists it in its top ten list for vegetarian friendly cities in the US. Ten years ago, when I had a craving for vegan I went to Real Food Daily on La Cienega. Real Food is still a good bet, but Indian, Mexican, Columbian, Ethiopian, many Asian are now available.

The idea and practice of veganism has been the topic of  recent conversations with my foodie friends. More than once I have heard it referred to as extreme, impossible to be a foodie if vegan! While I am not the total vegan I used to be, I fail to appreciate or understand the dismissive attitude toward veganism. Perhaps the issue has to do more with the word foodie, than vegan.  In The Achewood Cookbook Chris Onstad’s response to foodie offers food for thought

“There are so many words that already describe people who like food….Foodie: It’s like the infantile diminutive—you put a y on the end of everything to make it childlike. We don’t need it. It’s embarrassing. I’m a foodie. OMG.”

Raw, vegan, vegetarian, fruitarian, pescatarian, meat driven, culinarian (broadening the term from one who makes food to one who consumes on a given level), macrobiotic or in the heavenly realms of existing on air, (airean?) present quite a range of choices. Would that each of us would listen to the wisdom of the body,  determine what it needs,  make the appropriate choice and graciously accept those of other foodies.

Crossroads, a formal dining spot on Melrose another recent vegan addition to LA has been getting a lot of positive press. Chef Ronnen who prepared the wedding dinner for Ellen and Portia and worked for Oprah, had acquired fame before he opened the restaurant.  A good critique as well as an educational essay for non-vegans can be found at

Crossroads: A New Leaf – Digest – Los Angeles magazine www.lamag.com

By the time we arrived at Gracias Madre the rain had stopped. With its ranch-like interior and colorful pillows Gracias Madre a recent transplant from Nor Cal is casual, a great place to relax over a meal.  We chose to sit at the bar per usual as we like getting to know the people who run the establishment. Sitting at the bar is one way to do just that. We started our meal with the seasonal aguas frescas that is made daily from freshly squeezed fruit. In this case mango and pineapple. A tad too light, a bit too thin it tasted watered down, not enough fruit flavor, just ok.

I ordered sopes con pina: two masa cakes with guacamole, pineapple, habanero salsa, pickled cabbage, cashew cream and cilantro. The dish was generally tasty, but the cakes a little  hard. I’ve never had a masa cake that required a steak knife for cutting. Pickled cabbage added a nice texture to complement the silky avocado. I stuffed the toppings into the handmade, thick, fresh corn tortillas served on the side. The crema made from cashew milk seemed indistinguishable from “real” crème – a real plus for a vegan restaurant.

image

For his Principales James ordered El Plato: a bit of everything from the entrée menu: butternut squash, cashew nacho cheese, chorizo mushrooms, cilantro pesto, escabeche rice, pico de gallo, beans and tortilla. Each item would have been just fine on its own, but mixed together they were too heavy and some of the tastes failed to complement one another.

image_2

On the whole my experience was good Mexican comfort food all the way–clean and healthy comfort food. Only open for a short time, at this point I could not call it a destination. None-the-less, I would happily drop in to Gracias Madre were I in the area–if only for the chips and salsa.

February 5, 2014 Pueblo of the Queen of Angels I

So I am in Los Angeles  sitting in Café Om, one of the great writing cafes in LA. The sign on the deep orange-salmon wall just off my right shoulder reads, “You’re at OM. No cellphone. Only OMMM.” Music plays in the background, a slow, sensuous contemporary ballad sung by a chanteuse who voice reminds me of the sounds that came out of the French bistros back in the forties. She sings of her love carefully stretching out syllables until they roll into a series of overtones reminiscent of the Tuva singers from Southern Mongolia. Café Om is painted appropriately in the colors of a temple in India or the robes of a sadhu. A few locals are enjoying conversation over an espresso or cup of rooibos. I find it interesting that they sit on the same red stools that pepper the street cafes I saw in Hanoi, but in this case, tall bar stools, not foot stools. A few people are writing one young woman does embroidery.

image_4

A Buddha’s contemplative head holds quiet space next to a magazine rack.

image_2

This is my kind of place.

I like Intelligentsia or Stumptown or if in San Francisco, Blue Bottle or Four Barrel where the coffees are rich and berried with long tones, the baristas accommodating, but this is an old fashion, hard core venue that resonates with the kind of vibes that speak to a writer’s heart. LA claims several such cafes. I would be remiss not to mention that Intelligentsia in Silver Lake matches the writer vibes as well.

Ten years ago while working on a screenplay with an actress friend, we would frequent Urth Cafe on Melrose the place for food, coffee and star gazing. It continues to be such to this day.  Or, we would go to V-Café down the street. Writers galore working on plays, short stories, first novels wrote in wire, spiral-bound, unlined notebooks; today, it’s all computers. Thank goodness for Wi-Fi.

Café Om is but a few blocks from St. Victor’s Church on Holloway Drive. Victor’s holds a special place in my memory bank. In ‘67 I taught a fourth-fifth combination at St. Victor’s School in a classroom on the third floor . A hi-rise Play Boy Club near Sunset Strip neighbored the school. Every time I looked through the windows I was reminded of bunnies.

Through all my years of teaching elementary and junior high, that fourth-fifth combination turned out to be one of the most intelligent classes I encountered.  Many of my pupils were movie stars or children of movie stars. Irene Dunn visited me once a week to confer on her grandchild. I held court with Zorro, yes the original Guy Williams over his daughter’s progress. The son of Mayor Sam Yorty’s dentist occupied a desk. I will not forget the brilliant son of one of the stars of Seven Brides for Seven Brothers. With my double teaching load there were times when I had little time to prepare science class. When that happened I would call on I will call him Brent. He would provide spontaneous, off the cuff talks minutely illustrated on the overhead projector on topics such as the asexual reproduction of plants.

During my time at St Victor’s the hippie movement in San Francisco was in full swing. Several decided to migrate  from the city by the bay to the more temperate climate of SoCal. In West Hollywood along Sunset Blvd from Doheny Dr. to La Cienega Ave. stoned hippies plastered the sidewalks. After a long day in the classroom I frequently took a walk along the same part of the strip. With reverence and respect the tenants reached out to me, shook my hand, and asked for my prayers. In a nun’s habit I must have looked as odd to them, as they with their long locks and baggy muslin clothing to me, but we reached over that divide and had lively, loving conversations.

A few years back I was asked in view of my worldwide travels to name my favorite city. Back in the day I would have answered Barcelona, but as I had not been there for some time I hit the mental delete button. “Los Angeles,” I replied. Oops, did I really say that. The surprise on the face of the questioner was only surpassed by my own. “You’ve got to be kidding,” was all he could say.

I have been observing, intermittently living in and visiting LA for more than half a century. I have watched the prolific development of its freeways (at one point slightly after my post-teen years, I drove them at night just to let out steam), and the ever-growing population with an an ongoing expansion of hi-rises to house it. At one point I moved north and LA became a distant memory, but circumstances brought me back and continue to bring me back. Is LA truly my favorite city? Something deep in my consciousness spurred that answer and I decided to find out what it is.

First, I turned to astrology. Los Angeles as the entire state of California is a Virgo with its official birthdate listed as  September 4, 1871.  As a triple Virgo, I must resonate. But surely there is more than astrological symmetry that would cause me to claim that LA is my favorite city.

Martin Heidegger claimed that we are not just the subject of mental states and experiences, but daseins, being there and intimately bound up in the place in which we find ourselves. We are so even when we are unconscious of the signposts that pock our local space. But for me the truth of the matter is that I get caught up in whatever place I find myself and as a result claim several places as home.

Perhaps I just have a deep case of topophilia and should let it go at that.

I do not as some, think of LA as a giant megalopolis crisscrossed by its famous thoroughfares full of pumped up speeders insanely weaving in and out of rush hour traffic faster than they could pick up to-go burgers at In and Out.  Instead I see the city of angels as a series of interconnected communal villages that can be as different as Southern and Northern California. Populated with cultures from around the world a drive through offers eye-popping opportunities to gain a larger view of the universe. Gentrification is slowly making its way through LA’s fringes as well as the hoods, but remnants of the old sit alongside the new.

Highland Park is a case in point. In the eighties it was a Caucasian community. Then Latinos began to move in bringing taquerias and super mercados. Now shifting yet again it is a multicultural diverse community including neighborhoods that maintain their own identities.

This kind of changing of the guard has been pivotal to LA’s history since the mid nineteenth century when Governor Neve decided to found pueblos next to the presidios along El Camino Real in Alta California. It was his intention to provide support for the military in the presidios thereby taking power away from the Missions. Needless to say, the Mission fathers were not too happy with his move. In the long run the Native Americans also gained independence from the Missions and found jobs in the new pueblo that was known as The Town of the Queen of the Angels.

Bordering South Pasadena Highland Park flaunts a range of architectural styles, some going back as far as 1870. Mom and pop grocery stores, whole-in-the wall restaurants, (Jonathan Gold, the only food writer to win the Pulitzer Prize considers El Haurache Azteca on Figueroa to be one of the top 14 Mexican restaurants in LA.), new gourmet bistros, stylish clothing shops, art galleries, yoga studios and fitness centers line the streets. Figueroa and York, the main thoroughfares.

Edward the owner of Elsa’s Bakery, a forty year old Mexican Bakery and coffee house that has become my go-to when I am in the Park not only for writing, but for great pan dulce and café olla as well, commented to me that in the Park a ninety five year old woman who does not speak English may live next door to a movie producer. To Highland Park’s credit, redevelopment is respectful of what is already in existence.

The Turkish owner of Café Om has just warned us that the café will close in fifteen minutes. It’s time to go out into the rain and head to Gracias Madre for dinner.

image_3

January 31, 2014 Unbounded Space

Today as I was purchasing one of my three daily cups of tuo cha at Seventh Tea Bar in the OC Mix, the young man waiting on me behind the tea bar initiated a conversation. Our leap into depth took about 2 minutes. We chatted and clucked traveling as far as we could in the few minutes one is given while ordering at the tea bar. John shared that he is studying for a master’s degree in Theology with a focus on the place of story and how it is used as a form of reconciliation in different cultures. Reconciliation if I remember correctly from my theology studies of fifty years ago refers to atonement between humanity and God-a negotiated reunion so to speak after the original split. I did not tell John that I think we are perfect rather than sinners, though our obscurations make it seem otherwise. Instead I acknowledged that I, too, have an interest in story particularly stories that layer the histories of sacred sites.

One topic lead to another again in the space of approximately two minutes, and I glossed lightly on unbounded wholeness. Since the plane flight to Vietnam the words continue to sing to me like a never-ending mantra. John intrigued, asked what I meant by unbounded wholeness?

I went silent.

As I pondered the impossible there was no way I could give this delightful young man a definition for which he eagerly awaited. After what seemed like an interminable pause, we were at the cash register, I suggested that he think of it as space. Unbounded space. He seemed happy with that idea and said he would think about it. He hoped that we could talk more at another time.

I began reflect on unbounded wholeness long before I bought Tenzin Wangyal Rinpoche and Anne Klein’s book Unbounded Wholeness. The book offers the reader a compelling study of the contemplative traditions of Bon, the indigenous tradition of Tibet. I had become absorbed in some of the practices of the tradition several years ago when I had the pleasure and opportunity to meet and study with Rinpoche. But even prior to that meeting I had been taught a meditative practice that led to an understanding of the experience, but not the analytical definition of unbounded space.  I decided to share this with John the next time I go for tea.

Sit as for meditation. This can be done anywhere, but when it is done facing and peering into open sky, it is what is known as sky gazing among the Tibetan practitioners. The eyes are open. Look ahead, but with an unfocused gaze. In fact take in the whole of the space. Gaze at a non-focused local, but be equally aware of the entire scene within the range of vision. It is important to keep this view. As thoughts come let them go as soon as their presence is observed. What is important is the unfocused gaze…keeping it free and relaxed. Doing this through sky-gazing can lead to the experiential awareness of unbounded space.

Sounds simple, right? It is, but it takes diligence, patience and persistence. That’s the hard part.

Initially the practitioner lays the groundwork in the art of focus. Once that is secured, untold possibilities open. I have practiced this simple form for over twenty-five years and what I experience continually undergoes changes and brings new realizations. An unusual mode of travel and where it leads never ceases to amaze me.

If you decide to engage or have engaged in the practice I would be most interested in hearing about your experience. If you live nearby, perhaps over a cup of tuo cha.

IMG_4779

 

IMG_4629

January 21, 2014 Earthing

Earthing.

I am beginning to see this term in unearthly places. The email I received today from The Montage Resort in Laguna Beach, Calif. for example revealed that it now offers earthing to its guests.

What on earth is earthing?

One night a week men and women gather at The Women’s Center a mile north of The Montage to dance to new age, transcendent music. On an occasion when I joined them for a session a facilitator suggested that the dancers allow their bodies to flow freely with the rhythm of the music, and to get in touch with the earth.  It was a ponderous, meditative evening with each of us wrapped in our own silent thoughts as we slowly and spontaneously glided around the room. On hearing that the Montage was offering earthing, I was convinced that it must be a dance form akin to what I had experienced at The Women’s Center.  Intrigued, I googled earthing.

A number of websites  popped up on my computer screen.  To sum up several, earthing is when a human touches the earth as in taking off his or her shoes to stand or walk on bare feet. I remembered earthing as a young child barely out of diapers. Sharp sheaves of grass poked at my feet as I ran across the lawn trying to catch bees. A few years later I recall grains of hot sand searing my soles as I ran from the protection of my beach towel down to the water’s edge at Laguna Beach and the cooling off as I jumped into the foam salt water.

Some sites spoke of the health benefits of earthing. One claimed that we need the electrical exchange with the earth. Contemporary life, living in cities, working in buildings at desks on computers so it seems, has disconnected us from this exchange.

The website for the Earthing Institute claims that, “Our immune systems function optimally when our bodies have an adequate supply of electrons, which are easily and naturally obtained by barefoot contact with the Earth. Research indicates that electrons from the Earth have anti-oxidant effects that can protect the body from inflammation and its many well-documented health consequences. In situations where barefoot contact with the Earth is impractical, one can use various conductive systems that have been developed for the purpose of reconnecting people to the Earth. An Earthing sheet on a bed or an Earthing mat placed under the bare feet or wrists while using a computer are prime examples.

Along this vein I recall a teaching from one of my Native American teachers. I will call him, He Who Knows What He Sees, taught me that the earth has the capacity to heal our ills and transform our negativities.  “Allow them, he counseled, “to drain through the soles of your feet. The earth will receive those energies and transform them. Follow up by offering gratitude.”

Another site offered twenty-five products the two mentioned above, designed to help with earthing when someone cannot get outside to have a one on one encounter. The items ranged from $19.00 to a far more expensive $259.00.

On request the concierge at The Montage will guide guests to the best earthing walks along the beach. With the mass of distractions that living in a high tech world contains I wonder how many guests would walk in awareness of the sand beneath their feet were it not for the fact that the Montage has organized a program called earthing.

Laguna Beach is an earther’s paradise.  One of the most beautiful ribbons of coastline and energetically powerful in Southern California it has attracted those whose lives afford them the luxury of its resorts and hi-end rentals since back in the day. It is a thriving center for the arts. Spiritual seekers retreat to Laguna to do their walking meditations along its shore. The great yogi Paramahansa Yogananda visited in 1949.

At a workshop I attended in the nineties The Queen of Dreams, Heather Valencia wife of the late Yaqui Chief informed me that in earlier times Native Americans gathered for ceremony in the hollowed out shallow caves along the shoreline of one of Laguna’s breath-taking beaches.  She encouraged me to go seek out that beach and search for the vortex in its caves.  I did just that and found it, but only after three years of searching.

Perhaps there is something to earthing.

 

image-4

 

 

IMG_3710a

 

 

IMG_3711a

 

 

image-3

 

 

image-0

 

January 14, 2014 Spider Rock

The final leg of the trip home from Vietnam took a little over an hour.

I smiled as I unlatched the lock and felt the contrast between my silent home, which sits of the edge of ten acres of open space bounded by a bike path, and the streets of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. In a world where endless streams of Vespa’s roar their mantras through streets bordered by sidewalks that serve as sets where locals live out the daily, I found unbounded space by going within. Now back at home where silence and space have their due, inner and outer seem not so separate and unbounded space much more accessible.

After my partner and I checked the house, the garden and unpacked, I scanned the library for a book. After six weeks on Kindle I yearned for print. Landscapes of the Sacred by Belden Lane caught my attention. I had purchased it long ago when most of my travels were mainly to sites that were called “sacred.” Never got around to reading it. As the title stared up at me it was countered by my thought that all sites or landscapes in Lane’s case, are sacred. Moving right along as thoughts are want to do, I wondered if sacred like beauty, is to be found in the eye of the beholder. Or, is there something qualitative that sets a place apart from others, which marks it as sacred?  I went to my wingback chair near the large window on the south side of the house to sort through my thoughts and to do a bit of research, Landscape and computer–my only other companions.

In the past I would have gone to Webster to review the meaning of sacred, but today I resorted to Wikipedia. Sacred…descends from the Latin sacrum…refers to the holy. Reading further I found a section titled “sacred ground” followed by  “This section does not contain any references or sources….” Time to move on from Wikipedia.

On the topic of the sacrum Landscapes of the Sacred had more to offer. I was especially taken with a quote Lane took from N. Scott Momoday as quoted from Barry Lopez in Artic Dreams.

“Once in his life a man [or woman] ought to concentrate his mind upon the remembered earth. He ought to give himself up to a particular landscape in his experience, to look at it from as many angles as he can, to wander upon it, to dwell upon it. He ought to imagine that he touches it with his hands at every season and listens to the sounds that are made upon it. He ought to imagine the creatures there and all the faintest motions of the wind. He ought to recollect the glare of the moon and colors of the dawn and dusk.”

On reading the quote I thought of Spider Rock in Canyon de Chelly, Arizona. While it has been more some years since my last visit it will  forever remain one of my go-to landscapes. Initially, I had decided to visit the canyon for the same unusual reason that I have chosen to visit a few other places. On a rare occasion the thought of some country, site or body of water explodes in my waking consciousness. It seems to come out of nowhere, no rhyme or reason other than I suddenly think of it and know I have to go. This odd phenomenon spurred my first trip to India, to the island of Kauai and likewise, Spider Rock.

A trip in 1976 to New Mexico initiated my long love affair with the southwest. On that trip I bought my first drum a Taos ceremonial, at the Taos Reservation and brought it back to California. For ten years it sat in the living room in my home softly drumming reminding me of the land from which it came.  Following the first trip my partner and I when we could find time, spent the next twenty-five  years combing the inches of the four corners—Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico. In the nineties I split my time between Davis and Santa Fe. I was ecstatic when my in-laws decided to retire in Arizona. Simultaneously, I began spending time among Native Americans and learning their traditions. The canyon to the north, Canyon de Chelly (shay) kept popping up. The name mystified me, sounded like a far-off magical land. I was drawn. And then I went.

Following a day at the Grand Canyon my companion and I steered east and headed toward Tuba City along Highway 160. A few miles past Tuba City we stopped to take a look at the Hopi Villages. I could feel the throbbing energy of the old ones under my feet as we set foot in Oraibi, one of the oldest continuously lived in villages in the US. I felt like I had been drawn to the center of the earth. In the ancient time the Hopi had agreed to be caretakers of the Fourth World this earth, in order to be able to live on it. They renew this agreement annually in ceremony. In Oraibi I noticed signs for ceremony and celebration taking place up on a mesa at that very moment. We got directions from one of the elders and promptly made our way up to the first mesa. We parked half way up the narrow road that led to the village of Polacca then hiked until we reached a large plaza where dance and ceremonies were taking place. In a sea of celebrating Hopi’s two others and we were the only guests. Greeted warmly we were offered food and drink, and given chairs to view the dances. The kachinas played with us. Truly, the ancient ones were giving us their blessing—a preparation for Spider Rock.

I had learned from a native elder that because of my astrology, in native tradition I am a member of turtle clan with bear totem. On leaving the ceremonies we descended the mesa and drove to the Cultural Center where I purchased a ring engraved with a bear paw. I wear it to this day.

At twilight we arrived at Thunder Lodge the only hotel inside Canyon de Chelly National Monument. We checked in and promptly took off to get a glimpse our surroundings, but soon darkness began to descend over the canyon and the only thing that breaks it are the stars. We decided to turn back and wait for morning. A dinner of Navajo taco, green chili stew and fry bread was waiting for us back at the lodge and a basic room took care of our basic needs; more important, we would sleep cuddled in the energy of the canyon land.

Rising at dawn my partner and I stuffed our backpacks with water and snacks and headed out. Slowly, ever so slowly we edged the south rim easing our way through sage and cacti. White House, Sliding House, Face Rock Look Outs, we stopped at all three, but my heart was pounding to get to Spider Rock the last stop and endpoint of the south loop.

The sign read “Spider Rock,” but all I could see was a small parking lot and some large boulders, no view. Another sign read “Don’t leave valuables in the car.” Arrows pointed us toward a narrow winding path. I followed. A gentle breeze softened the intense rays of the morning sun.  As I got closer to the outlook vistas of canyon valleys sided by red and green terraced walls began to unfold. Shortly, I rounded a bend, a rock, and there she was! In all her stateliness, magnificence and power: Spider Rock. I stared in disbelief, I gasped in awe. I don’t know how long I remained gaping, taken aback as well as taking in one of the most incredible sites I had witnessed in this lifetime.  We recognized and welcomed one another like old lost friends. Had I lived here near her in some past time or life?

When some time passed I do not know how long, the sound of a cowbell from the floor of the valley far below tickled my ears. Later I would learn that in summer some of the Navajos return to the floor of the canyon with their livestock; in winter they return to the nearby town of Chinle. As I came back to ordinary consciousness I remembered that at the lodge the night before a park ranger told me that from the rim above Spider Rock I could shout or sing and anything I said would echo back. First, I shouted greetings. Every word returned sounding like a response from the heart of the universe. I pulled Gregorian chants out of my memory and chanted. The Gloria in Excelsis Deo in echo had never sounded so good. I Om-ed and received in return a score of overtones.

A grey granite, pepper flaked boulder actually two boulders, formed a meditation chair in perfect view of the rock. Now that I think about it, they were just like the granite boulders we installed in the back yard four years ago. My voice weary, I sat down and curled in my legs. My eyes followed the wavy, red sandstone canyons seemingly toward infinity. The soft breeze caressed my arms while a silence so enormous it could only be unbounded space absorbed the entire canyon. I closed my eyes and sat for a long time.

Eventually, as earlier a cowbell began to punctuate the silence. Gradually, I awakened.

I had been called to this sacred place on the Navajo Reservation, but on that day I did not know that it was sacred to anyone except me. We returned to our sunbaked car and drove back to the lodge for a rest.

The following days we rose at dawn went to Spider Rock and meditated, and at noon returned to Thunder Lodge for lunch. We toured the northern rim and late in the afternoon revisited Spider Rock for sunset. The next day we took the daily scheduled valley floor tour in an open truck. The bad news was spending the greater part of two hours bouncing around on hard seats; the good, we stopped at the base of Spider Rock where I could experience her energy from the core.

According to the ancient legends, I was at the home of Spider Woman.  It is told that she lived at the base of the two pillars that form Spider Rock and taught the Navajos weaving, so important to their economy. Often weavers honor her by rubbing spider webs on their hands before they work.

At the end of the week I had come to know that I had experienced something precious. It affected me in ways that would not reveal themselves until a few years later. I had to as Momoday advised, give myself up to this landscape, view it from many angles, listen to its sounds, experience its dawn, mid-day and dark. The impact of the first visit was such that I would return in order to come to know her well.

In the summer and early fall the light over the canyon is golden. Thunder and lightning accompany the frequent showers dividing the dark sky like a furious Kali providing moksha for her devotees. Rainbows, cross thread one another forming translucent weavings of loops mimicking dream catchers. Autumn light turns filmy, crispy, blue, and as snow sets in the canyon goes quiet. Winds whistle through red walled chambers singing of the aloneness that arises in solitude. Beauty reins along its articulated spaces and upon her rock Spider Woman stands firm.

On my last visit full of anticipation for what it would bring I made my usual pilgrimage out to the rock.  Well into fall, deep in the canyon winds whistled like finely tuned violins. I felt a slight, but pervasive chill. I greeted Spider Woman and sat on my now favorite boulder for a meditation. Hours passed, or so it seemed, it could have been minutes. I don’t know how long he had been there; he made no sound. When I opened my eyes a Navajo sat beside me. He spoke. “You’ve been meditating. Do you come here often?” Surprised, I responded, “As often as I can. And you?”  He answered, “Now I do. This is the place for my people. This is where they come and need to come much more.”

We sat together in silence for several minutes. Finally, both of us got up and walked together through the sage and sand back to our cars.

In silence.

The following photos are far better than my snapshots from an earlier time.

Heaven aka Navajo Nation – Canyon de Chelly National Monument

www.lovethesepics.com/…/heavenakanavajonation-canyon-de-chelly-…
« Older posts Newer posts »